Overview: If your distributor bearing is squeaking chances are you will need to replace it or
otherwise the squeek will heat and potentially destroy the igniter or heat the distributor shaft and melt the distributor rotor, stalling
vehicle at 80-mph on a fast lane. Some have reported a melted coil which is followed by a dead igniter only weeks later.
(We're not sure if this is related but sounds possible: an overheated coil can be the result of a defective coil with a low resistance. An overheated coil can also be the result of a defective igniter, which can be tested with an ammeter. )
This section was created in 2001. Since then the price of the distributor housing has dropped considerably. You can just replace the distributor housing. If you like to learn or save money, please continue reading.
Top: How to remove the covers and various parts from the distributor housings is shown above in gif animation. CAUTION: Do not tap on the rotor to remove it, instead use large flat head screw drivers. If the rotor doesn't come off then crush it with a vise grip. Do not work with the ignition system with the ignition ON.
Working environment: Find a suitable well lit, wooden or hard surface for the various exercises. Have a small tray to collect the screws. Wrap individual parts in a clean paper towel (to clean them and prevent them from rolling away.) Line the parts in the order in which they were removed on a clean flat surface. If they can't be finish within a day, put the wrapped parts inside a clear bag but you will need a printout of the images on this page to guide you during installation. These steps can help reduce stress and prevent errors during assembly.
Note: Measuring the distance apart from the tip of the shaft and the rotor with a milimeter ruler will ensure a correct alignment with the sensor during reassembly.
The CYL rotor easily comes out by pulling it with your fingers. If it won't come out then use a puller.
If the CYL rotor is too tight, then the rotor can be removed at a different time. Again , no tapping to prevent damages to the sensors. Removing the igniter and the coil (if the distributor has a coil. Handle the coil carefully.)
Remove a couple screws which is pretty tight. Avoid slipping and damaging the screw heads. To prevent slipping, hold down the distributor and put your full weight on the screw driver and the screw before twisting the screw driver counter-clockwise.
Raise the shaft assembly, including the bearing frame and rotors.
Remove the assembly from the housing and mark the distance or position of the bearing in the shaft. Place the assembly on a pipe or wooden structure. Precisely and vertically, tap the shaft with a Ball Pein Hammer or a light hammer.
At this stage, you will be able to remove the screws not accessible previously. Continue to remove the screws and move the frame out of the way.
Place the shaft and bearing on a supporting surface. The supporting surface is nothing but two pieces of flat iron placed in parallel and inches apart, resting on two pieces of brick. Continue tapping until the shaft drops out. Do not let the shaft drop onto the pavement or you may chip the rotors causing an engine misfire. Don't remove the crank or the TDC rotors. If you do then you'll need to precisely realign it.